Live plants make guppy tanks easier, not harder — as long as you choose hardy species. Plants help stabilise water by consuming nutrients, they calm fish by adding cover, and they give fry places to hide. In Australia, many tap water supplies are neutral-to-alkaline and moderately hard, which actually suits a lot of classic “easy” plants.
Floating plants (great for stability)
- Water sprite / hornwort: fast growers that soak up nitrate and provide fry cover.
- Salvinia: compact floaters that thrive in gentle flow.
- Duckweed (optional): very fast nutrient uptake, but remove regularly so it doesn’t blanket the surface.
Keep an open patch of surface for oxygen exchange and feeding access.
Easy rooted plants
- Cryptocoryne wendtii: tolerant of varied hardness; may “melt” then regrow once settled.
- Vallisneria: makes tall grass beds for fry; trim runners to control spread.
- Amazon sword (low-tech): can work in larger tanks if you use root tabs occasionally.
Attach-to-decor plants (nearly unkillable)
- Anubias and Java fern: tie to wood/rock; don’t bury the rhizome.
Placement for guppies
Instead of filling the whole tank, aim for two zones: a clear swim lane where males can display, and a dense “retreat” zone where fish can disappear. This reduces chasing and fin nipping and makes community tanks calmer. Dense plants also help fry survival if you keep males and females together.
Simple plant care (the low-maintenance version)
- Light: 6–8 hours is enough for most easy plants and helps prevent algae blooms.
- Trim: remove decaying leaves weekly so they don’t become waste and fuel algae.
- Clean clumps: swish dense plants in old tank water if they trap detritus.
- Don’t over-fertilise: in guppy tanks, fish waste often supplies plenty of nutrients; dose lightly if needed.
Plants don’t replace water changes, but they reduce swings and make your tank more forgiving. If you’re battling algae, add plant mass first and reduce photoperiod before reaching for chemical fixes.
